Reviewing the same restaurant twice is rarely worthwhile, and only one establishment has previously earned that distinction in this column: CALI Kitchen, which received an initial rave in 2023 and then a farewell piece after closing a year later. Maple House in central Seoul's Haebangchon now becomes the second Restaurant of the Week to be featured twice, having first been covered almost two years ago. The neighborhood, which sits at the foot of Namsan near Itaewon, has long been known for its mix of long-standing Korean eateries and Western-friendly cafes and bars, a backdrop that helps explain why a diner-style breakfast spot can find an audience there.

Formerly a Korean brunch cafe with an excellent food menu, Maple House closed down a few months ago — to the apparent disappointment of more than one regular. It has since reopened after a quick renovation, adopting more of the character of a Western-style diner while still featuring great food, albeit with some changes. Western-style breakfast remains a relatively niche offering in Seoul compared with traditional Korean morning fare, which makes a well-executed breakfast menu a notable draw for the area's expatriate residents and visitors.

When price, quality and quantity are all factored in, Maple House remains this reviewer's favorite place for breakfast food in Seoul. The breakfast section of the menu has been significantly expanded, offering more options without sacrificing the earlier selections, and there have been several other tweaks to food preparation as well.

One previous shortcoming was the way the breakfast sausages were prepared: sliced in half for quicker cooking, which cost them the juiciness a proper breakfast sausage should offer. That practice appears to have been dropped, and the sausages are now one of the highlights of the breakfast plate. The bacon is now thicker, juicier and less crispy. One change that will be missed is the old potato hash, previously served in small cubes rather than the larger slices offered now. The pancakes remain satisfying.

The rest of the menu has undergone a more thorough overhaul. The pastas — which the reviewer never tried — and the chicken sandwiches, which will be missed, are gone. New additions include a burger and a patty melt. The burger is basic and could use more customization options, but it is competent enough to potentially give nearby RawRaw Burger a run for its money.

The previous review praised Maple House's peaceful, minimalist atmosphere, supported by calming jazz or classical music. The renovated version, which is attracting more customers on every visit, tends to feel more frenetic. Still, the reviewer accepts the tradeoff of sharing the pleasant restaurant with more people if that helps it stay open. The busier post-renovation trade is a welcome sign for a restaurant scene in which independent spots frequently shutter after short runs — the fate of CALI Kitchen being a recent example from this same column — so readers may want to visit during off-peak hours if they prefer a quieter meal.

Maple House is open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day of the week except Monday.

Source: The Korea Times