If I’m honest, my first thought when someone offered me a trip to the Maldives was bling and boardwalks, with limited character or culture. But Ifuru Island, a 5km-long oasis in the northern part of the famous luxury region, is much more than that.

Ifuru — meaning “blossom” in the local Dhivehi language — is around half an hour’s onward travel from Male International Airport, the main gateway for travellers arriving in the Indian Ocean archipelago. The Maldivian experience begins with a seaplane journey in a Twin Otter over astonishing turquoise water; there really is such a thing as a blue lagoon, and we flew over several. It is an exhilarating way to arrive in paradise.

Ifuru Island itself does feel like paradise. Set among tropical gardens filled with unusual flora and fauna, the newly opened all-inclusive hotel offers a 5-star experience in an accessible way. It places emphasis on social activities and shared spaces, yet never feels overcrowded or overly touristy. During my stay, I saw rare monarch butterflies, lizards, hermit crabs, birds with exotic calls and, at dusk, huge fruit bats swooping overhead. Only buggies or bicycles are allowed, which gives the island a welcome off-grid feel.

What about the villas?

I stayed in a comfortable beach villa set directly on the white-sand shore, only about 20 seconds from a swim in the bath-warm sea. Privacy comes from carefully placed shrubs and palm trees, so the only soundtrack while sunbathing was the gentle sound of the waves.

The villa came with everything I could want or need: a welcome bottle of champagne, fresh flowers, a concealed outdoor shower and tub bath, a private terrace, Wi-Fi, a smart TV, a pillow menu — with the lavender option my favourite — and a wardrobe stocked with a robe, slippers and Maldives/Ifuru Island-embossed flip-flops.

A short snorkel from the villa, I joined guided snorkelling and scuba-diving among vividly coloured live coral reefs that attract tropical fish and the occasional turtle.

There is also a suite with a balcony or terrace for families, an entire block of rooms with an outdoor social lounge for groups or wedding parties, and, for those looking for something more indulgent, a villa with a private pool and beach access.

A small warning: my luggage arrived 36 hours late, stuck in Doha after a particularly tight connecting flight. Given how remote the island is, I would recommend keeping all essentials with you, otherwise you may need to buy swimwear and sun cream from the island’s only shop, where nothing costs less than $100. The hotel staff helped locate the bag, which took much of the stress out of the situation.

Almost all Ifuru staff are from the Maldives or neighbouring countries, which adds to the resort’s sense of authenticity. Service is strong, and the hospitality team knows every guest’s name. The island also has its own health clinic with a dedicated doctor and nurse.

One evening, I had dinner with a couple from the UK who had already decided they would return with family for a big birthday celebration. That is one of the resort’s strengths: it feels like the sort of place guests will want to revisit year after year, whether they are coming for a quiet beach break, a group trip or a milestone occasion.

What about the food?

Ifuru has three restaurants: The Waterfront, the candlelit shoreside option with a tasting menu; Palm Beach, a rustic grill serving local specialities; and Social House, the more relaxed venue that also hosts the breakfast buffet. I could not fault the food. There were plenty of familiar dishes to suit all tastes, but I especially enjoyed trying the local food.

Breakfast ranged from traditional Maldivian fish dishes to bircher muesli with purple dragonfruit and vanilla cream donuts. Chefs are on hand to make almost anything you want, sweet or savoury: French toast, Indian dosa, pancakes, omelettes, shakshuka eggs and more. Barista-prepared flat white coffee was also available. And if you feel like staying in, there is an Ifuru Eats 24-hour takeaway service that can deliver dinner or a midnight snack straight to your room.

How to skydive in the Maldives

So far, everything sounds idyllic. But what sets this resort apart from others across the 1,200 islands that make up the Maldives? There is plenty of competition for discerning travellers, and even in high season in January, when I visited, the hotel was relatively quiet.

One distinction is that Ifuru is a natural island, unlike several nearby human-made resorts that fit more neatly with the boardwalk-and-bling stereotype. Not many resorts have their own airport either, and the hotel can also arrange skydiving for guests above the blue lagoons. That combination matters in a destination where many stays are built around the same sun-and-sea formula: here, access and activity sit alongside the usual overwater-island appeal.

Skydive Maldives Ifuru was created by World Champion South African skydiver Will Penny, and it is the only place in the Maldives where visitors can try the extreme sport. I took the leap on my third day and it was among the most thrilling, mind-blowing things I have ever done. I won’t pretend otherwise: I was absolutely terrified. But my tandem instructor looked after me incredibly well, and I will never forget the aerial views over one of the most stunning corners of the planet.

Other more down-to-earth activities include painting classes, kayaking, dolphin-spotting and island-hopping excursions, as well as tailor-made yoga and sound bath sessions. I had one on the beach in front of my villa timed to coincide with sunset. Or you might simply want to relax by the infinity pool or Beach Bar with a good book while a DJ plays chillout tunes as the sun goes down.

Ifuru Island Maldives is a 5-star, all-inclusive resort in the Raa Atoll. For more information on the resort, visit For information on Skydive Maldives Ifuru, visit