Spanish chef Luis Martinez is expanding his presence in Manila's dining scene. His first restaurant under the Nikkei Group, Terraza Martinez, earned a spot on the Michelin Selected list last year — a designation Michelin inspectors award to establishments that fall just short of a Bib Gourmand or star but are nonetheless recognized for quality — while two more establishments bearing his name, Sala Martinez and La Taperia Martinez, have generated considerable buzz. His name now appears on a fourth venture, Brasa Martinez, which opened last month.

BusinessWorld visited Brasa Martinez, located in Rockwell's Joya Lofts & Towers in a space previously occupied by another Spanish restaurant that has since relocated. Rockwell Center, a mixed-use development known for its upscale residential towers and retail spaces, has become an increasingly competitive dining corridor. The interior features mid-century chairs and a wicker bull mounted on the wall, with a real taxidermied bull's head displayed on the second floor.

Diners familiar with the other Martinez-named establishments should expect something entirely different here.

"Everything is cooked using charcoal," Mr. Martinez said in an interview with BusinessWorld. "It's not the typical Spanish place," he added, noting the absence of staples such as croquetas and other conventional dishes.

"I never studied culinary arts, so for me, doing the typical Spanish recipes was easy. I grew up with that kind of food," he explained. "This kind of cuisine for me is new. It's a challenge. It's pushing me to learn, to continue developing myself."

The restaurant's name references the Spanish word "brasa," meaning hot coals or embers. The kitchen houses a two-meter-long charcoal grill. "With charcoal, the only thing that you can get is to find a better flavor of the ingredient," Mr. Martinez said.

The menu showcased several standout dishes. The Octopus Gilda consisted of two small skewers of marinated octopus, Basque Piparra, onion, and olives, with the additional ingredients and marinade complementing the octopus. A grilled squid dish, stuffed with caramelized onion and bathed in a shrimp veloute, offered contrasting textures and flavors, with each ingredient evoking different nuances of the sea.

Another seafood offering, Clams Arroz Caldo, featured clams stewed in a lapu-lapu broth with rice and a green sauce made from parsley, garlic, and sunflower oil. The rice was removed from the stove just before turning translucent, retaining a slight bite while absorbing the broth's flavor throughout — reminiscent of a looser risotto.

The final savory course was Iberico Pork Presa, served with truffle mashed potatoes, mushrooms, shallots, and pork demiglace. The pork, sourced from Black Iberian pigs specially bred and fed for distinctive flavor, displayed complexity attributed to its lineage. The meal concluded with shards of chocolate sprinkled with nuts.

Before his culinary career, Mr. Martinez was a veterinarian. "I don't know if you know that I'm a veterinarian," he said. He transitioned to cooking in Siargao, where the Lorenzana couple behind the Nikkei Group befriended him and brought him on as a partner approximately five years ago.

"I know the animal. I know the meat. I know how to use that. I know the internal (chemistry) of steak. I know fish — I know what happens with fish after one week, after two. It gives me a lot of information when I cook," he said.

His affinity for the ocean, which originally drew him to Siargao, also informs his approach to seafood. "I love to surf, I love the ocean, I love the water, and everything that involves water."

The Nikkei Group has plans for three more restaurants that will carry his name. "It's a responsibility, to handle a place under my name. At the same time, it makes me feel so good and so valued," he said.

When asked how he manages multiple ventures and continues generating ideas, he replied: "I'm here, and my mind is in Terraza right now. I don't really know. I'm still doing it. The team I have working with me is amazing. Without them, I will not be able to do whatever."

Brasa Martinez is located on the Ground Floor of the Joya Lofts & Towers, Joya Dr., Rockwell Center, Makati City. For reservations, contact 0966-177-6197.

— Joseph L. Garcia