Antonio Cesari、Shinsegaeとの提携を高く評価

100年超の歴史を持つイタリアのワイナリーBrigaldaraのオーナーであるAntonio Cesari氏は、1979年に父のStefano Cesari氏が家族のワインの流通を始めた当時にはなかった課題に、気候変動が新たに加わったと述べた。

Brigaldara's Cavolo Vineyard in Grezzana, Italy / Courtesy of Shinsegae L&B

Cesari氏によると、イタリアの著名なワイン産地であるValpolicellaの気象条件は、ますます極端になっている。自然に依存する伝統的なワイナリーにとって、欧州各地で広がる熱波や山火事は無視しがたいものだが、今年のイタリアではそれらの災害が同じ規模で発生していないとも述べた。季節条件に強く左右されるブドウ畑の作業やワインのスタイルを考えると、こうした圧力はBrigaldaraのような生産者にとって特に重要だという。

"Still, it has been warmer than Korea in Italy and it has been like that almost all summer. The quantity of water is now almost zero and it’s going to be quite difficult. In January, meanwhile, the cold was so extreme we got 10 days under zero degree Celsius. That wasn’t normal for Mediterranean,” Cesari said at a press conference in Seoul on Tuesday.

"The last vintage that literally hasn’t been problematic due to the climate change was in 2021. Yes, I am scared and I think the future of my job is terrible. Everything is extreme."

Antonio Cesari, the new owner of Brigaldara in Valpolicella, Italy, poses with a bottle of his wine from their vineyards while in Seoul on Tuesday. Courtesy of Shinsegae L&B

こうした状況にもかかわらず、Cesari氏はVeneto地方にある家族のワイナリーを維持する決意を示した。ソウル訪問は、Shinsegae Groupの酒類事業部門であるShinsegae L&Bとの継続的な取引関係に後押しされたものだとし、韓国を「私たちが得られる最良の市場の一つ」と表現した。国内市場が縮小しているとする中で、欧州のワイナリーにとって輸出関係がいかに重要かを強調した。

"We were quite shocked when Shinsegae contacted us in 2018. I cannot complain. We’re very happy," he said.

Cesari氏は、Shinsegaeとの提携を自身の成果の一つだと述べた。また、BrigaldaraがShinsegaeのような関係を築く前に、Stefano Cesari氏がゼロから事業環境を整えなければならなかったとして、父との立場の違いにも言及した。

"Valpolicella became famous because of wine experts from my father’s generation. Back then, local wine markets in Italy were completely free so my father drove everywhere, including Munich, to where he drove three hours from Verona to sell everything. They were the ones who grew up the market," he said.

"We, on the other hand, were born richer. We could study and graduate universities. Our challenges are different from our fathers because the market is now opposite. They don’t drink and the market is decreasing. The market is now looking for fresher wines, easier drinking wines and different styles. Both generations, however, have the same goal — growing the grapes in the best way possible."

Brigaldaraはイタリア各地で合計47エーカーのブドウ畑を保有し、国際的な消費者から求められるブレンドではなく、伝統的なワインと品種に引き続き重点を置いている。Cesari氏は、ワイン業界全体でも若年層の消費減少が進む一方、ノンアルコールおよび低アルコール製品が市場で存在感を高めていると述べた。

"Non-alcoholic products are coming to the market. Maybe the future market will be dominated by non-alcohol or low-alcohol products. Somewhere along the line, alcohol became a public enemy," he said.

"So we focus on how good and not dangerous the wine is. My grandparents and my father always got one glass of wine every day. It was part of the diet and a way of life. Brigaldara doesn’t want to make wine that kills you. We want to make a wine that you can enjoy and can be part of your life."